In your home studio. less is more. It is best if you can plan ahead and avoid the issues associated with the proper disposal of hazardous materials all together. When waste is produced, the disposal method with the least impact on the environment must be chosen. This moral imperative is coupled with your local legal requirements, so you don't harm yourself, your neighbors or the environment. Waste disposal instructions can be obtained from the manufacturer of the product, product safety data sheets (SDS), and your local landfill or water treatment plant. Requirements are different in every state, so be sure to check!
Maintain an organized work area.
It makes clean up quicker and you will be less wasteful.
It makes clean up quicker and you will be less wasteful.
General Tips
- Before using water to clean palettes, brushes, containers and other tools, wipe them with a paper towel and allow it to dry before disposal. This makes wash water stay cleaner longer and keeps paint solids from going down the drain.
- It's so incredibly easy to get lost while making art! Remember, if you can maintain an organized work area it will make clean up quicker, safer and less wasteful.
- Don't store sticks/scoops in ink containers, especially if it’s made of wood or cardboard. It will have an effect on the texture and functionality of the inks.
CAN I USE BLEACH TO RECLAIM MY MESH?
The most common reclaim chemical in the screen industry is sodium metaperiodate. Bleach is both slower and harsher for the environmentally. Controlling the dilution of bleach as it contacts the stencil is also difficult. If the concentration is too high, there's danger of a lock-in from an oxidation-reduction reaction; too low a concentration, and there's no effect. The optimal concentration varies for each emulsion blend. Certain types of emulsion are hard to reclaim with bleach of any concentration.
This is a salt that is related to household chlorine bleach, but without the harmful characteristics associated with bleach. Typical emulsion removers contain sodium metaperiodate or salts of periodic acid.
Problems during reclaiming of the screen occur when the screen was underexposed or if the emulsion is extremely water resistant. The higher the water resistance often emulsion the more difficult it is to reclaim. Never let the reclaimer dry on the screen.
The most common reclaim chemical in the screen industry is sodium metaperiodate. Bleach is both slower and harsher for the environmentally. Controlling the dilution of bleach as it contacts the stencil is also difficult. If the concentration is too high, there's danger of a lock-in from an oxidation-reduction reaction; too low a concentration, and there's no effect. The optimal concentration varies for each emulsion blend. Certain types of emulsion are hard to reclaim with bleach of any concentration.
This is a salt that is related to household chlorine bleach, but without the harmful characteristics associated with bleach. Typical emulsion removers contain sodium metaperiodate or salts of periodic acid.
Problems during reclaiming of the screen occur when the screen was underexposed or if the emulsion is extremely water resistant. The higher the water resistance often emulsion the more difficult it is to reclaim. Never let the reclaimer dry on the screen.
Why am I having trouble reclaiming? The old emulsion won’t come off the screen...
The most common cause of reclaiming trouble is underexposure of the stencil and/or under cured emulsion.
The longer a stencil remains in a screen the harder the emulsion is likely to become. Get in the habit of reclaiming your screens as soon as you are finished with them.
If the emulsion is not completely dry before exposure, the soft, wet emulsion remains inside the dried outside surface like a sandwich. This uncured emulsion will react with inks, solvents and other chemicals during the printing process and chemically lock onto the screen. This will make it very hard to reclaim the screen later. Other factors that promote easy reclaiming are proper exposure and cleaning the ink completely and then removing the ink wash with degreaser. The reclaiming problems are one of the biggest culprits of improperly exposed screens. If a screen is underexposed the subsequent stencil will have good detail but its surface will be soft. This soft stencil will not reclaim as easily because the ink mix with the soft emulsion and stain the mesh. If a screen should need to be underexposed, post expose it after washed out. It is easy to place the screen in the direct sun-light for a few minutes.
Difficult Reclaiming if Under Exposed?
Only a minor amount of the Sodium Metaperiodate in reclaimers is needed to breakdown the stencil. The large amount of water is what allows the chemicals in reclaimer to penetrate the emulsion coating so they can do their job. Stencil remover has little effect on 'underexposed' stencils. The sodium metaperiodate in stencil remover attacks the cross links that hold the stencil in the mesh. If you underexposed, there aren't lots of links to break, and you have to use more force to punch the stencil from the mesh. Make sure to harden the stencil fully, mix reclaimer properly and apply as directed. If you don't have access to a power washer, try to create more water pressure to blast it off the screen. Stubborn bits of stencil will remain despite your best efforts. Try reapplying the stencil remover or dehazer to problem areas. Wait a few minutes and hit it with your pressurized water.
The longer a stencil remains in a screen the harder the emulsion is likely to become. Get in the habit of reclaiming your screens as soon as you are finished with them.
If the emulsion is not completely dry before exposure, the soft, wet emulsion remains inside the dried outside surface like a sandwich. This uncured emulsion will react with inks, solvents and other chemicals during the printing process and chemically lock onto the screen. This will make it very hard to reclaim the screen later. Other factors that promote easy reclaiming are proper exposure and cleaning the ink completely and then removing the ink wash with degreaser. The reclaiming problems are one of the biggest culprits of improperly exposed screens. If a screen is underexposed the subsequent stencil will have good detail but its surface will be soft. This soft stencil will not reclaim as easily because the ink mix with the soft emulsion and stain the mesh. If a screen should need to be underexposed, post expose it after washed out. It is easy to place the screen in the direct sun-light for a few minutes.
Difficult Reclaiming if Under Exposed?
Only a minor amount of the Sodium Metaperiodate in reclaimers is needed to breakdown the stencil. The large amount of water is what allows the chemicals in reclaimer to penetrate the emulsion coating so they can do their job. Stencil remover has little effect on 'underexposed' stencils. The sodium metaperiodate in stencil remover attacks the cross links that hold the stencil in the mesh. If you underexposed, there aren't lots of links to break, and you have to use more force to punch the stencil from the mesh. Make sure to harden the stencil fully, mix reclaimer properly and apply as directed. If you don't have access to a power washer, try to create more water pressure to blast it off the screen. Stubborn bits of stencil will remain despite your best efforts. Try reapplying the stencil remover or dehazer to problem areas. Wait a few minutes and hit it with your pressurized water.
SPEEDBALL PRODUCTS
Water Soluble Inks – Use warm water and a soft brush. These inks will remain water-soluble even after thorough drying.
Fabric and Acrylic Inks
WASH IMMEDIATELY AFTER THE LAST PRINT IS PULLED.
Drawing Fluid – Wash with cool water.
Screen Filler
Option 1: Greased Lightening or Comet cleanser is preferable for removing screen filler. One (1) cup of Arm & Hammer’s Washing Soda dissolved in one (1) gallon of water is also suitable.
Fabric and Acrylic Inks
WASH IMMEDIATELY AFTER THE LAST PRINT IS PULLED.
- Use warm water and a soft brush.
- Should ink dry in the screen, spray with Windex‚ or a similar window cleaner. Rub with a lint-free cloth.
- When ink is removed, wash with a mix of warm water and dishwasher detergent (Cascade, etc.) using a soft brush. Rinse with warm water.
Drawing Fluid – Wash with cool water.
Screen Filler
Option 1: Greased Lightening or Comet cleanser is preferable for removing screen filler. One (1) cup of Arm & Hammer’s Washing Soda dissolved in one (1) gallon of water is also suitable.
- Apply to both sides with a paintbrush. Scrub with a nylon bristle brush.
- Apply again to both sides. Let stand in a horizontal position for three to five minutes.
- Scrub with a nylon bristle brush while spraying with a forceful stream of hot water.
- Apply to both sides of screen, scrub, then apply again.
- In 3-5 minutes, screens come clean using hot water and a nylon brush.
- WEAR RUBBER GLOVES, EYE PROTECTION AND A SMOCK.
- PHOTO EMULSION SHOULD BE WASHED OUT OF YOUR SCREEN AS SOON AS YOUR PRINT RUN IS COMPLETED
- ONCE YOU HAVE STARTED REMOVING PHOTO EMULSION YOU MUST NOT LET THE SCREEN DRY UNTIL COMPLETELY CLEAN.
- Be certain all of the ink has been removed from the screen fabric. Apply Photo Emulsion Remover liberally to both sides of the stencil using a paintbrush.
- Immediately scrub both sides of the stencil with a dry nylon bristle brush. Again, apply Photo Emulsion Remover liberally to both sides of the stencil.
- Keep the screen in a horizontal position for three (3) minutes. Scrub both sides with the nylon bristle brush and flush with a hard spray of hot water.
ULANO PRODUCTS
Screen Degreaser Liquid NO.3
Stencil Remover Liquid NO.4 (Ready To Use Liquid Stencil Remover)
- Rinse the screen thoroughly from both sides with water, including the inside edge of the frame and the frame corners.
Stencil Remover Liquid NO.4 (Ready To Use Liquid Stencil Remover)
- Use gloves. Stencil Remover Liquid No. 4 is a strong oxidant and can cause skin irritation
- Keep the container closed tightly. Clean spills immediately.
- First Aid: In case of contact with the eyes or skin, flush immediately with water. If irritation develops, contact a physician.
- Remove as much ink from the screen as possible, with water or solvents.
- Use Screen Degreaser Liquid No. 3 to remove solvent residues and to help speed the action of the stencil remover. Rinse thoroughly.
- Use a soft brush to apply Stencil Remover Liquid No. 4 on the screen from both sides.
- Wait five minutes - no longer. Do not allow the stencil remover to dry on the screen, as this can result in a permanent stencil.
- Wash away the stencil with a hard spray of water, preferably a power spray.
JACQUARD PRODUCTS
Professional Screen Ink (water-based) - Clean up with soap and water.
Versatex Screen Ink (water-based) - Clean up with soap and water.
Screen Drawing Fluid – Wash with cool water.
Screen Filler & Block Out
Removing the Photo Emulsion – Reclaiming the Screen
To reuse your screen, you can remove the photo emulsion from the screen after it has been exposed.
Versatex Screen Ink (water-based) - Clean up with soap and water.
Screen Drawing Fluid – Wash with cool water.
Screen Filler & Block Out
- To remove the Screen Filler & Block Out, cover both sides of screen with paper towels and wet with diluted bleach. Always exercise caution when working with bleach.
- Allow to sit, while wet, for up to 20 minutes.
- Then spray both sides of the screen with cold water. Screen Filler & Block Out will soften and wash out.
Removing the Photo Emulsion – Reclaiming the Screen
To reuse your screen, you can remove the photo emulsion from the screen after it has been exposed.
- With the screen lying horizontally in a sink, lay paper towels on both sides.
- Pour a mixture of half bleach and half water solution over the paper towels. Let soak for a while to let the photo emulsion soften.
- Scrub the screen gently with a brush or scrubber sponge to remove all emulsion.
- Rinse and dry thoroughly before reapplying emulsion.
References (in progress)